Many of us think about the GPU, CPU, SSD, and RAM before the motherboard. However, having a bad motherboard with significant components is counterproductive for the desired goal you aim for. More often, the steep price comes from a rich-featured motherboard that we might not even need. What interests me more are boards that support AMD 9000, 8000, and 7000 processors. I appreciate the option to upgrade your CPU in later years if needed—this will save you from having to buy a completely new motherboard. My goal in this selection is to find the most affordable motherboard with a comprehensive set of connectivity and upgradeability.

Rated as one of the best motherboards with immense value, the MSI B650 Gaming Plus is a great choice. There is no need to opt for a B850 or X870, as the B850 utilizes the same chipset as the B650, and the X870 is designed explicitly for high-end creators. This motherboard provides everything you need and is typically available at a 10–30% discount, priced under $200. If it’s not on sale, a great alternative is the ASUS TUF GAMING B650 Plus.

Continuing with the MSI B650 Gaming Plus, it features a respectable memory speed of up to 7200 MHz, which is more than enough for gaming. It includes HDMI 2.1, DisplayPort 1.4, one USB Type-C 20 Gb, a 2.5G Ethernet LAN, Wi-Fi 6, and instead of bringing any inferior USB 2.0, it shockingly gives you four USB 3.2 5 Gb ports and three USB 3.2 10 Gb ports. Although it utilizes the previous generation of SSD slots (PCIe 4.0), that is perfectly fine, as the difference between PCIe 4.0 and PCIe 5.0 is insignificant except for the price.

I’ve even seen builds featuring an RTX 5080, 9950X3D, and 64 GB RAM with the foundation of the MSI B650 Gaming Plus. Therefore, you can be confident that your setup will be fine, even with an RTX 5090. Although the new Wi-Fi 7 technology is now available, Wi-Fi 6 remains a fantastic option. Either way, you should always find a way to connect your PC or console through Ethernet LAN for the best performance. Most gamers will opt for an extended router or a 50-foot Ethernet cable to cover the entire home—that’s what I’ve done in the past.

When choosing RAM, it’s a safe bet to opt for 6000 MHz CL30 for AMD. RAM is all about speed and timing, and this configuration will provide you with the best of both worlds at the right price. To be exact, the Corsair Vengeance DDR5 6000 MHz CL30 is highly rated in all regions and, from personal use, has been nothing short of exceptional.

RAM is beneficial because it takes the load off the GPU and CPU, allowing them to focus on other complex tasks, thereby improving the PC’s overall performance. It plays a crucial role in reducing lag, stuttering, and improving responsiveness, resulting in a smoother gameplay experience. RAM also goes hand in hand with SSDs, as they both complement each other and significantly improve load times and textures.

I would focus primarily on two options: 32 GB and 64 GB. Sixteen gigabytes used to be the norm, but as of 2026, you’ll be disappointed with its performance when it comes to newer titles. 48 GB is an odd one, and it’s best to avoid it entirely, as the value it provides is not as good as either 32 GB or 64 GB.

Most gamers who upgrade to 32 GB report positive feedback and believe it’s worth the cost. Having multiple tabs and applications open in parallel while gaming—with no performance drop—is a blessing. This is especially helpful for multitaskers or anyone who tends to keep dozens of tabs open while gaming. Since many new games consume around 16 GB of memory and upcoming games are expected to require 32 GB, upgrading from 16 GB to 32 GB can result in a 10% FPS increase, and at the 0.01% and 1% lows, up to a 75% FPS increase. Lastly, upgrading from DDR4 to DDR5 improves FPS by approximately 30%.

Here’s a breakdown of what each RAM size offers:

• 16 GB → Minimum you should aim for on a budget. It lets you run most games adequately but expect stutter in newer AAA titles (2022 and beyond).

• 32 GB → The sweet spot. Ideal for 99% of games, including 4K VR gaming, while allowing multiple background tasks, streaming, and entry-level video editing.

• 48 GB → Provides similar functionality to 32 GB but with slight headroom. Useful for max settings with ray tracing, Sims, and improved editing. Still, not worth it compared to 32 or 64 GB.

• 64 GB → The powerhouse. Perfect for heavy multitasking without performance drops. Handles 8K VR gaming, recording/streaming in 4K, large VR-Chat worlds, modded games, 4K editing, 3D animation, large workloads, and 50+ browser tabs simultaneously.

Any SSD with speeds of 4500 MB/s or above will be significantly faster for gaming compared to an HDD. On the other hand, the performance difference between Gen 3, Gen 4, and Gen 5 SSDs is almost non-existent when it comes to gaming. This improvement is specifically tied to gaming, but if you engage in creative work, you may see additional performance benefits.

For most people, I suggest ignoring Gen 5 and opting for Gen 4. It’s more cost-effective, considerably cooler, and provides the same real-world gaming performance. The money you save can be allocated toward an additional terabyte of storage or another PC component. While Gen 3 SSDs are still good for gaming, I would spend an extra $15 for a 7000 MB/s SSD with DRAM cache, which makes everything snappier and improves longevity. Nowadays, SSDs are far more affordable compared to a few years ago, so choosing an HDD or even Gen 3 feels like a waste.

Although it isn’t the top priority in a gaming build, an SSD significantly improves the overall experience. Benefits include faster load times, quicker installation, smoother gameplay, enhanced textures, and better system responsiveness. For example:

• Open-world games → Faster fast travel, inventory access, and smoother transitions in complex environments.

• MMOs → Improved performance in congested cities and large-scale battles.

• Shooters → Faster map loading and in-game menu navigation.

• VR gaming → Amplified benefits—reducing stuttering and load times. Stuttering in VR can even cause motion sickness, and long waiting times staring into a dark void can be annoying and straining.

Would you rather wait 1–2 minutes to load a AAA title or be ready within 30 seconds? Would you prefer 1–2 hours downloading a new game, or 20 minutes? Beyond gaming, SSDs also improve background tasks—allowing you to fluently switch between Steam, Discord, YouTube, Spotify, Crunchyroll, and other apps while gaming.

For 2026, the SSDs I recommend are:

• WD_BLACK SN850X → Top choice for gamers (speed, cost, durability).

• Samsung 990 Pro → Best option for creators.

• Alternatives (still excellent): Crucial T500, Corsair MP600 PRO LPX, Seagate FireCuda 530, SK HYNIX P41 Platinum.

Biggest Games by Storage Size (with DLCs)

Here’s a list of the heaviest games you should consider when choosing SSD capacity:

• DCS World – 500 GB

• ARK: Survival Evolved – 400 GB

• Call of Duty (individual titles) – 110–235 GB

• God of War Ragnarök – 190 GB

• Medal of Honor: Above and Beyond VR – 180 GB

• Final Fantasy XVI – 170 GB

• Final Fantasy XV – 110 GB / 160 GB (4K)

• S.T.A.L.K.E.R. 2: Heart of Chornobyl – 160 GB

• Assassin’s Creed Valhalla – 160 GB

• Forza Horizon 5 – 156 GB

• Final Fantasy VII Rebirth – 155 GB

• Star Wars Jedi: Survivor – 155 GB

• Horizon Forbidden West – 150 GB

• The Last of Us Part II Remastered – 150 GB

• Baldur’s Gate 3 – 150 GB

• Marvel’s Spider-Man 2 – 140 GB

• Starfield – 140 GB

• Halo: Master Chief Collection – 137 GB

• Monster Hunter Wilds – 135 GB

• Borderlands 3: Director’s Cut – 135 GB

• Rainbow Six Siege – 131 GB

• Black Myth: Wukong – 130 GB

• Microsoft Flight Simulator – 127+ GB

• Gears 5 – 127 GB

• Red Dead Redemption 2 – 120 GB

• Indiana Jones and the Great Circle – 120 GB

• Mass Effect – 120 GB

• Destiny 2 – 102 GB

• Kingdom Come: Deliverance II – 100 GB

• Path of Exile – 100 GB

• The Last of Us Part I – 100 GB

• Gears of War 4 – 103 GB

• Metaphor: ReFantazio – 93 GB

• Atomic Heart – 90 GB

When it comes to PC components, one company that consistently delivers great work is Corsair.

Additionally, I recommend the Corsair RMi, which is considered an A-tier PSU and is also certified as a Gold 80+ power supply. As mentioned earlier, I also chose them for my RAM. Even though they are priced a bit higher, it’s the reassurance that I’m willing to pay for.

They are amazing at building PC components. You will see many people highly speak about their products.

As you may notice, the PSU I chose has a higher wattage than what its manufacturer recommends. The reason behind this is that I will be upgrading to the next generation, and I would like to have ample headroom.

Additionally, I follow the 20% rule, which suggests that using a higher wattage allows your PSU to run more efficiently. Therefore, you should do the same and leave some headroom for any future upgrades related to a GPU or CPU.

Although half the community dislikes the term future-proofing, it applies to specific components. Many people who choose the entry-level GPU from NVIDIA or AMD usually jump 2–3 tiers above later down the years.

Getting 100 more watts from what’s recommended would be wise. This ensures that if your upgrading to the next generation or the one after that. You wont have to buy a new power supply.

A few years ago, I learned that when you purchase a pre-built PC, not only are you spending roughly $300–$600 more, but they also sometimes provide a PSU that is less powerful than what the graphics card recommends. That’s wild.

That’s why I advocate building your PC. Not only will you save more, but you will also have the proper components running your hard-earned money, or your parents’ money. Plus, it’s a great feeling you have once you assemble one.

It might feel intimidating, or you might feel a bit lazy in doing so, but a $500 difference lets you miss out on these probabilities:

• RTX 5060 Ti 16GBs → RTX 5070 Ti 16GBs

• RX 7800 XT → RX 7900 XTX

• RX 9060 XT 8GB → RX 9070 XT

• AMD Ryzen 7800X3D → 9950X3D

• 4TB SSD + 32 GB more of RAM

• 2 years of Netflix, Hulu, or YouTube Premium

• 6 years of Crunchyroll

• 3 years of Spotify

A high-quality power supply typically comes with a warranty of 7 to 10 years. The Corsair RMe one gives you 7, but its lifespan could be anywhere between 9 and 13 years safely, which means that you would likely want to replace your GPU or CPU before your PSU fails.

I believe you will upgrade within 12 years at least once, most likely twice, and possibly even three times if you like to stay up to date with technology.

There are only two brands of air coolers that should be on your radar more than others. One is Noctua and the other is Thermalright.

Noctua is the undisputed king, but it comes with a hefty price tag. Although they offer better performance, aesthetics, and lower noise output, you should lean toward the Thermalright.

The specific model would be the Phantom Spirit 120 SE. This is a budget-friendly air cooler that works on all ends. Many have used it with the Ryzen 9 9950X3D, which is a powerful CPU. This shows that it can handle any level of CPU for $35.

There aren’t many better than Phantom Spirit for the price range and the performance that it provides. Any other air cooler that is better is minimal. More often, the extra cost comes from the lower noise level the fans produce or RGB lights, which is a nice feature to have, but not a necessity.

If you’re sensitive to the fan noise, then your best bet is the Noctua NH-D15 or a liquid cooler. But I wouldn’t recommend a liquid cooler.

At this time, a well-built air cooler can handle any CPU, especially with a PC case that has good airflow. The difference between the two does not justify the cost disparity. The only times you need a liquid cooler are when you overclock your CPU or perform consistent, heavy workloads, which is less than 1% of consumers.

Liquid Coolers have 1 glaring drawback which in choosing one makes it less ideal. That flaw is that they have a high likelihood of having more failures due to their complex assembly. Once this failure occurs, it is more likely that you wont notice it and proceeds to leakage, potentially damaging other components such as your CPU, PSU, and Motherboard. Even though its rare, it does happen, and when it does, you will be a bit traumatized.

In contrast, air coolers are easier to repair and more cost-effective, as a fan failure is relatively easy to replace.

The liquid coolers are better in terms of aesthetics and overclocked CPUs, but is it worth it to be paranoid about failure and the poor software you have to deal with to make it functional?

Air coolers will provide nearly the same efficiency while being practical, affordable, durable, and having an install-and-forget process with no risk of destroying your PC.

Now, the best liquid coolers do outperform air coolers, but on the other hand, many liquid coolers perform poorly and are not worth selecting.

The best quality air coolers are the only ones you should aim for if you want near-identical performance to the best liquid cooler. You cannot simply use any air cooler; instead, you must select the best ones. These include:

• Corsair A115

• Noctua NH-D15

• Peerless Assassin 120 SE

• Phantom Spirit 120 SE

• and a few others

Any of these choices will match the best AIO on the market. However, the Phantom Spirit 120 SE offers the best price-to-performance ratio, which is unbeatable when considering all factors.

I suggest going all out on this one. Grab a high-quality, high-airflow mid-tower case, and the rest is history. One option is the Antec Flux Pro Mid Tower. It comes with 5 PWM fans pre-installed, which is marvelous. It saves you the hassle of installing the fans, which can be tedious or complicated for many. I’m not fond of installing fans myself, and I know many will feel the same way. So, grabbing this case helps you skip that installation process and lets you focus on installing the main components right away. Not only that, but five pre-installed fans are not the norm. Most cases come with 3-4 fans, which is sufficient. However, combining the size of this case with five pre-installed fans and a high airflow design, it would be an educated guess from anyone’s perspective that one’s components, such as the GPU, CPU, SSD, and RAM, have the best chance to stay cool. The last thing you want is a component to fail on you, and the best way to ensure their longevity is to keep them as cool as possible. Cramping everything into a more compact Tower will cause more heat to build up, requiring you to buy extra fans or a liquid cooler, which will cost you anywhere between $60 and $200 over the course of 7 years. The Antec will help you avoid those costs and hassles from the outset. This is why I recommended pairing this case with the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE. Both will outlast every other product, and you will not have to worry about them easily over a decade, making them future-proof. This case also features two USB 3.0 ports, one Type-C 10 Gbps port, and supports up to 9 fans, along with a pull-out dust filter. This is an Endgame Tower for the vast majority. Aside from all that, the most captivating aspect of the Antec is the aesthetics. With a premium wood front design and solid metal, it gives the impression of high quality, and it is just that. (Get Full Tower for 5090 build)

Sony’s soundbar is phenomenal. The Bar 9 is their flagship product, featuring 13 speakers and Dolby Atmos. This soundbar is more than enough to fill a room and deliver spectacular sound quality, featuring powerful bass and transparent dialogue. This alone does the job. Of course, you can purchase the subwoofers and make it even better, but try the Bar 9 first and see if you need to make that additional purchase.

It features drivers facing forward, to the sides, and upwards, delivering a surround sound experience with the assistance of its “360 spatial mapping.” This tech outperforms every other soundbar alone in terms of immersiveness, especially in smaller rooms.

As amazing as the Bar 9 performs, its true potential comes from pairing it with newer Sony TVs, specifically the BRAVIA lineup. They work in parallel, delivering synchronizing sounds from both your TV and Bar 9, enhancing your experience. Making movies, shows, or games sounds thrilling.

Sony Bar 9 also sounds good in the music department, but it’s not its forte, and it falls short of its competitors. However, the primary focus of purchasing a soundbar is usually for content and games, rather than music. But as an overall product, it’s outstanding.

There are a few brands that excel in producing headphones. The type of headphones that I usually focus on are Open-Backs. The brands that interest me are HIFiman, Beyerdynamic, Grado, and my personal choice, Sennheiser. Any of these brands will have a model that you will fall in love with. We are all different, so there is no definite best headphone on the market. Some people prefer a stronger bass, a better soundstage, or greater clarity.

I encourage you to try Open-Back headphones. If you have never tried them, you will be mind-blown. It’s a must! Especially if you love appreciating music, films, or in-game cinematics. I did a few years ago, and I fell in love with them. They are breathable, comfortable, and sound more realistic. I never get tired, sweaty, or overheated, and I don’t get headaches compared to closed-back headphones or earbuds in general.

The headphones that I owned and experienced for a significant amount of time are the Sennheiser HD 599. They fall under $200, but they sound like premium headphones. It’s an all-around headphone, but for gaming specifically, I suggest the Sennheiser HD 560. They are incredibly comfortable, never causing fatigue or discomfort when worn for long periods. The HD 560 offers a great image and soundstage, which enhances gameplay, especially in FPS titles. Being able to hear footsteps and gunfire more precisely in the direction they are coming from makes the game more immersive.

The downside of the HD 560 is that they do not include a microphone. These might not work for you, depending on how you intend to use them and your lifestyle, if you’re looking for an all-in-one headphone microphone. The best one is the Sennheiser/EPOS PC38X. Your ears will thank open-back headphones.

On another note, if you prefer headphones that don’t cover your ears, a great alternative is the Sony INZONE Buds. Even though they are earbuds, they feature 360-degree spatial sound with amazingly low latency, plus a 24-hour battery.

If you get one of the headphones with no microphone, then the HyperX SoloCast is an excellent mic for just under $50. One of the best in terms of budget-friendly. Many appreciate this microphone, which has garnered over 20,000 ratings in the US, Spain, and Japan, with an average rating of 4.6 on Amazon.

It connects through USB and comes with a stand already. So, you don’t need to buy a separate boom arm to hold it. Just buy an inexpensive pop filter with it and you’re set.

Forget about gaming chairs in total. They may look cool, but they are a waste of money. They provide no benefit and are not nearly as comfortable as office chairs or ergonomic chairs. If you’re sitting for long hours gaming, working, browsing, or doing productive tasks, wouldn’t you aim to be comfortable? Sitting for long hours is not healthy in the long run; therefore, it’s essential to stretch or take a short walk every hour or so. This is amplified, and the body takes a bigger toll if you’re sitting with an incorrect posture. Health is wealth. There are three things you shouldn’t go cheap on: where you sleep, where you sit, and what you stand on.

I recommend buying an ergonomic chair over any other. There are many at any price range to choose from. Unfortunately, finding the right chair that fits your unique body perfectly is extremely difficult. It’s best to opt for a budget-friendly ergonomic chair under $150 initially. Then, after 1-2 years, consider upgrading to a premium, high-end chair, either new or second-hand. Nearly all ergonomic chairs with mixed reviews cost under $1,000. The only ones that have overwhelmingly positive feedback are brands such as Herman Miller, Humanscale Freedom, Steelcase, and Haworth, which many have claimed they would prefer over the mid-range options.

Now, if you decide to go with a mid-range option of around $700, your best bet would be the Hinomi H1 Pro V2 or the Hbada E3 Pro. Although these two also have fluctuating reviews, they are the best of the bunch. I would choose Hinomi, as it costs $600 and I expect it to last me over a decade, providing the best comfort with no significant flaws. But with the mixed reviews it has accumulated, I would rather wait and save until I can afford a chair that would last forever.

I was about to purchase the Hinomi H1 Pro V2, a chair that had been on my Wishlist for quite some time, but I opted for the Hbada P1, which costs $150. It’s a great beautiful chair for the price; it provides decent adjustable lumbar and neck support, breathable mesh material for the entire back, an average seat cushion that supports up to 330lbs/136kg, 90-degree flip armrests, and 12-degrees in reclining, which is good for stretching but not really to lean back and watch something for several hours. Although I’m not particularly impressed with it, it’s still ahead of most gaming chairs.

Suppose you are someone who spends many hours sitting at the desk on a gaming, dining, or office chair. Trust me, this chair will work wonders, and it’s a must. I am delighted with my purchase and would recommend it to anyone. As for high-end options, you can focus on either Herman Miller, Humanscale Freedom, Steelcase, Haworth, or the newcomer Anthros. They are all remarkable at assembling high-quality ergonomic chairs. These will last you a lifetime, with proper care, easily up to 20 years. They all have top-notch warranties that cover you for up to 5, 10, 12, and even lifetime (Steelcase) on various parts of their chairs. These options epitomize health, comfort, and style.

My approach and suggestion to many is to start with a low-end ergonomic office chair until you’re able to buy a high-end one. Mine will be the ANTHROS. It’s a newcomer competing against high-end chairs. Based on my research, this chair is the best on the market. They have an ingenious approach to building their chairs by providing proper posture to alleviate pain while amplifying comfort. It’s completely different from any other chair that has ever been built. Putting much thought and science behind their product. It’s the only chair that the FDA has approved to relieve pain in correcting posture over time. That’s wild.

Although every other ergonomic chair helps with posture and overall health, no chair can fix your posture by itself; it requires a combination of factors, including proper sitting posture. Hbada, Hinomi, Herman Miller, Humanscale Freedom, Steelcase, Haworth, or any other chair is crafted to promote good posture. However, your body fights it unless you are actively aware of how to sit on it, which is the best way to describe it. These chairs demonstrate how to sit for better posture, but the Anthros encourage proper sitting without the feeling of being forced.

They have by far the best method for maintaining better posture while sitting and simultaneously correcting it once you’re done at your desk. Amazing. It helps with Upper back pain, Lower back pain, Disc Herniation, Disc Degeneration, Osteoarthritis, Muscle Strain, Spondylolisthesis, Neck Strain, Shoulder Pain, Piriformis Syndrome, Hip Pain, and Leg Pain.

Anthros was designed using scientific research and evidence, and it was named “Anthronomics,” a unique blend of biomechanics, ergonomics, and anthropometrics. It features the best breathable and comfortable cushions available and outperforms all other office and gaming chairs. Many chiropractors are highly impressed and recommend it. So do I.